When I tried last year, I couldn't figure out crux moves. I was not strong enough to do this route.
During last winter I began to train properly at the depot that was my first time to do structured training. Some days, I would start training before the sun came up before work and again after work.
It definitely helped! I saw big improvement with my finger strength and stamina.
So, this summer it was time to test it out. Time to step it up! I wanted get back on the route to see what difference it had made.
I was lucky to find someone who wanted to climb this route at the same time. Lucy is 19 but really strong and always has a positive attitude and spirit. I really enjoyed climbing with her. It doesn't matter any age, we both wanted to climb this routes. We are both pretty short so it was good to swap and share beta, that helped me a lot. Lucy did the route pretty quickly.It was great to see and gave me more motivation. I started feeling "I can do this route".
This summer has been really wet, luckily this route stayed dry, but with all the rock around being so wet. I started to worry maybe not much time left to try. I had a great day on the route I got really close falling off last crux a few times. That night and next day I couldn't stop thinking about it. The moves kept going round in my head.
The next opportunity I had was a morning before work. I dragged my friend for belaying at 7:00am! The morning was chilly, cool breath flowing through the gorge and It was so quiet. Perfect! I was very motivated but same time a little nervous from the stress of redpoint pressure.
I did it second go finished by 10am. It was almost too perfect, I was not even late for work ;-)